Although arriving at the airport in time to "run to the gate" - checking wine through requires a minimum of 45 minutes prior to flight time - i.e. - missed my flight
Stuck in SFO for 6 hours until the red-eye - debated how many minutes I could kill in the book store - how good the "bad" airport food might be - or was it - how bad the "good" airport food might be - did I really want take off my shoes - empty my pockets - pull off my belt - i.e. - go through airport security - again !!!
Jumped a taxi back to 800 Hyde - settled onto a bar stool as a walk-in for dinner at - Gary Danko -
Based on STRONG recommendation - had tried to get in on Monday night - it did not to happen - so this was an opportunity to make up for a previous attempt - catch a few morsels at the #1 rated restaurant in San Francisco - and - drink some more California wine -
I was very early - 5:30 - and people were already the tables - I'm told the reservation phone books 2 months in advance -
Picked out a bottle of Pinot from a huge list - Joseph Swan Vineyards - 2002 Trenton Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir - more on this later -
David - bartender extraordinaire - explained the tasting concept of the menu - i.e. - go with what Chef Danko suggests - or - create your own - 3 course - 4 course - 5 course - tasting menu - almost everything could be had as an app or main - perfect for me -
Lobster Salad with Citrus and Mustard-Tarragon Vinaigrette - very nice - but didn't rock my socks -
Seared Ahi Tuna with Avocado, Nori, Enoki Mushrooms and Lemon Soy Dressing - the presentation - the plating looks like abutterfly - is true art - and the tuna - thinly sliced - barely seared - perfection - the combination - inspiring - its rare that something can take your breath away - but this one did -
Risotto with Lobster, Rock Shrimp, Asparagus, Meyer Lemon and Shimejis - just plain wonderful - I had it as an app - rich - creamy - layers wrapped around the lobster - shrimp - asparagus morsels - the largest portion of all the app courses - could have done more if not determined to taste as much as possible -
Glazed Oysters with Osetra Caviar, Zucchini Pearls and Lettuce Cream - the description by itself was enough to make it a winner - "glazed oysters" - had to try - it was very different from what I expected - oysters were almost poached - served in a circle - sans shells - in a luscious sauce - almost soup - atop each oyster - Osertra Caviar - took a bit to re-adjust from the expectation - slightly too "foodie" for my palette - David explained that the Oysters were washed in white wine that was later incorporated back into the sauce - Maki would have loved this one -
Pan Steamed Shellfish with Thai Red Curry and Jasmine Rice - I saw this served to a woman across the bar - viewed from 10 feet - just had to try it - a touch of spice - wide assortment of Pacific seafood - most memorable - thin wafers of grilled scallops - wonderful -
Lemon Soufflé Cake with Raspberry-Cream Cheese Ice Cream - had decided against dessert - when they served this to everyone in the party on the other side of the bar - as they began to nibble - I could see that I could not ignore - the Lemon Souffle Cake - great but I had been there before - the Raspberry-Cream Cheese Ice Cream - out of this world - into the next - worth every calorie - and then some - this was NOT your father's Hagen Daz -
Back to the wine - Joseph Swan was a classically elegant Russian River Pinot - big - full bodied - lots of fruit - without being "Pisoni" fruit forward - nicely balanced - but I wanted to drink a Pisoni - and the restaurant had several on their list -
When the Sommelier came over - at my request - to talk Pinot - he definitely steered me away from the Mendocino section which listed the Pisoni grapes - and back to the Russian River - in fact - he repeated turned back to the Russian River pages -
Did he know something that I didn't -
Did he not know the massive magical qualities of the 20 some odd vintners who use grapes from this vineyard -
Would the Pisoni choice have conflicted with my wide assortment of tasting items -
Was he the world's greatest and I a mere ignorant customer -
Whatever his reasoning - I felt I was pushing against the tide - bought the Joseph Swan - enjoyed the Joseph Swan - but not being able to knowledgeably discuss what I really wanted - if he did not know that would have been OK - if he thought one wine superior to the other - that would have been OK - but to ignore my leanings so totally - that was wrong - he should have talked me out of it - instead - he was the old fashion "I know and you don't" snobbery that Sommeliers have always been known for - wrong audience to pull that on -
It was a dark spot in an otherwise stellar dining experience - even though I was sitting at the bar -
Enjoy -
HBH

Buff - Sorry you missed your plane I guess next time you need to allow a little more running time from Sonoma. Good to see you again.
Pablo
Posted by: Pablo Blanco | April 29, 2006 at 10:34 AM