Mike Colameco - Chef - PBS TV Food Show Host - WOR Radio Food Show Host - and - absolute New Yorker - appears to have been keeping notes on all the restaurants - wine shops - bakeries - and - food markets - he has visited - and - loved - over the years -
Hence - Mike Colameco's Food Lovers Guide to NYC -
He's not reviewing or grading the scores of restaurants in the book - rather - he's written profiles of each establishment - stories - a little history - an interesting anecdote about his personal experiences there - insight into the folks running the place - even a few words on the restaurant's signature dishes - i.e. - it's why you should go - why he would go -
- I learned there is a Ben Benson - that he was partners with Alan Stillman (Smith & Wollensky) - that Stillman started TGIF to pick up Airline Stewardess's -
- Never knew that Shelly Fireman (Brooklyn Diner) was from the Bronx - or that - Chinatown Brasserie has a BBQ Chef that makes St. Louis Ribs -
- Who knew that Jacques Torres (Jacques Torres Chocolate) was a fan of Roberto Passon - or that - Tony Luke's wasn't owned by Tony Luke which bought about its change by Evan Stein to Shorty's -
A few do miss key points -
- Emillo's Ballato fails to recount how John Ballato accepted the challenge - that - location - location - location was not necessary for success - opening Ballato's in what is now Emilo's space - years ago - when getting a carry permit was considered a wise move before going down to the neighborhood - for one of the greatest Italian meals on the planet -
- Telepan is financially backed by one of the most significant wine collectors in NY - his collection making up the core of the restaurant's excellent wine program -
The book's too dense introduction is essential reading - before delving into the reviews - as its explains - what's going one - why one restaurant might be in - and - why another restaurant might be out -
As a New Yorker - I found myself looking up restaurants I knew - or had been to - to compare notes - it was thoroughly enjoyable -
But the book's title is "Guide" -
As an out-of-towner - I would have to think twice before calling on Mike's expertise in choosing a restaurant - as the volume only allows one to look up - alphabetically (if you already know the name) - by neighborhood (if you know "where" you want to eat) - or by price -
Not indexing restaurants by cuisine is the unforgivable omission that detracts from an otherwise excellent read -
Wisdom of the ancients always served civilisation well.
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