Red Is Life

Domenica

Floating in the middle of large white bowl containing a shallow pour of rich - Vellutata Di Fungi aka wild mushroom soup - with all its wonderful rainbow of flavors - a thick - single piece of toast covered in wild mushroom duxelle -  drizzled with truffle oil - OMG - need more be written about John Besh's latest creation ?? - 

The space is open - clean - modern - yet warm - every table has breathing room - the table tops a touch deeper than usual - service was good - not four star - a strong two - 

We ordered cocktails - soup - salad - panini - pizza - everything was the freshest - 

Of note from the menu - 

• Bolzano - roast pork shoulder - fennel - apples - bacon - pizza - the crust was full - taste flashed back to Luke's onion tart - no relation to NYC or traditional pizza - the topping was a meal unto itself - tender pork - cut into bite sized pieces - not pulled - the apples and bacon carmelized candy - too much for one big guy - like me - 
• Grilled Market Vegetables - panini - goat cheese - arugula - olive oil - simplicity - smiles on consumption -
• Vellutata Di Fungi - see above
• Fried Testini- whole grain mustard pickles and arugula - they should be a bit more forward with what exactly this is - i.e. head cheese - passed on this panini

With more time - dinner is a "next trip" must do - particularly for 

• Black Drum - ceci puree - tomatoes - olives - caperberries

Heard - saw (briefly) - custom pizza ordering/POS - incorporates iPad - tech talk of the locals - 

Negatives - charged for Diet Coke refills - was it company policy - was the server trying to boost the lunch chit - with more time would have questioned the manager -

For now - just enjoy'd the lunch and dining partners - 

Lazzara's Square Pizza

Small - 3 white table-clothed tables - wrap around counter just deep enough for one's plate - how could you not walk in to find out what Lazzara's is about -

Its ultra thin - square pizza - 6 pcs per pie - $1.50 per pc - all day long - soooooo goooood !!!!

Sauce is rich - cheese is plentiful - variety is limitless -

• Plain - can't go wrong
• Homemade grilled mushrooms - a far far cry from traditional tasteless t-shirt pizza mushroom slices -
• Homemade grilled eggplant - one full circular slice almost covering the entire Lazzara square -
• Crisp crust - snapping (almost) with the first bite -

Took home two pies Friday night - retained heat - no excess grease - fiercest critics raved - cursed being exposed to pizza that was beyond the delivery zone - just wonderful stuff -

Morning after - cold from the refrigerator - still unique - never "doughy" - just great !!!

All tasting done at 9th Avenue btwn 43rd & 44th

Rizzo's

Waiting for the - slow-as-a-snail - bus to take me down Steinway to a pizza shop - raved about by my friend Michael - began to ask - "am I crazy doing this" ... "its just a slice of pizza" ..."maybe the bus not coming is a message"..."go for it !!!" - 

The bus came - I overshot Rizzo's - walked back - into the ultra clean - surprisingly fresh - pizza shop - ordered a piece of Sicilian (per Michael's instructions) - lusted for a slice covered with BBQ chicken - (Americana - grilled chicken - sauteed onion - barbecue sauce) - instead asked - "what should I try ... besides the Sicilian" - the counter-man replied - "plain" - my head kicked back - so it was to be - "a slice of plain" - 

The square Sicilian did not disappoint - ultra thin crust - home made - slightly sweet tomato sauce topping - not overly drenched - sprinkled with cheese - topped with a slice of mozzarella - wonderfully balanced - a dramatic departure from the traditional thick crusted "slice-of-bread" we have all come to expect when ordering Sicilian - 

But then there was the simple - "plain" - slice - this was magic - ultra thin crust - crisp - same slight sweet sauce - very light on the cheese - hot from the oven - though not burn-the-roof-of-the-mouth hot - it was almost other worldly - in a pizza sort of way - immediately wanted more - 

Came back a week later - had to confirm my findings - another slice of "plain" - the magic continued - plus a slice of Margarita - (tomato - fresh mozzarella - red onion - basil - extra virgin olive oil) - just when you thought it couldn't get better -

Rizzo's is family owned - since 1959 - now being run by the second generation - there's pride - a difference that's missing in so many other tee-shirt pizza shops - even the Chef pizza restaurants - that crumble when the "star" is not on the premises -

This is a pizza institution - that stands out - and deserves to be visited - enjoyed - well worth the trip for New Yorkers who many times feel that if its not in Manhattan - its simply "not" - Rizzo's proves them wrong -

Pretty Bad Pizza

Wandered pass ConePizza in Astoria Queens - had to try it - what a mistake -

Read the menu - watched the "how its made"video - read the specials - ordered the vegetarian ConePizza -

The sole counter person - took a cone in gloved hand - then - from mini counter bins - right next to the ice cream toppings - loaded one plastic spoonful of shredded cheese - a dab of tomato sauce - more cheese - a plastic spoon full of diced veggies - another mini dab of sauce - more cheese - more veggies - more tomato sauce - finally filling the entire cone - topped with more cheese - then - put the loaded cone into the ConePizza machine - a counter oven with slow moving (and slower rotating) cone holders that disappeared into the oven box - emerging five or maybe seven minutes later -

The topping had melted - it was browned - the cone itself still looked raw -

Lifting it with a paper napkin - my $2.50 ConePizza was handed over to me -

The top was very hot - no way to take a bite - the ingredients within having melt together - I wanted to taste - but there was going to have to be a wait - it had to cool -

FInally - a nibble of the hot melted cheese - another nibble - then a bite on the edge to get a bit of (cone) crust and some of the vegetables -

It had the texture and tasted like cardboard - yes there were vegetables - but they were down towards the base of the ConePizza - and - I was going to have to eat through the useless tasting cone part of the ConePizza  to get to them -

A few more mini bites - it was a globe of mozzarella - with a touch of tomato sauce - and by now - the balance had gone from piping hot to very warm to almost cold -

There was a trash can at the subway entrance - I tossed what was left - not worth the pain or the calorie count -

La Traviata

Call this "hole in the wall" pizza - off Columbus - up 3 steps - if you sneeze walking by - you'll miss it - and that would be a shame -

Almost no seating without squeezing around the counter - I love their pizza - defined flavors - great selection of toppings - the shop is very small - so everything sells quickly - forcing everything to be freshly made -

Crust is slightly chewy - on the medium thin side -

Next time you catch a movie at Lincoln Square or drop a letter at the Post Office on 68th - grab a slice at  La Traviata -

Enjoy -

Francesco Pizza

It looked good - the tables were full - the topping crisp - but in the final (tasting) analysis - another Columbus Avenue "tee-shirt" pizza joint - 

The eggplant topping was a bit mushy - the crust looked thin but came across bread-like with a too crispy crust - 

Great expectations - but tossed the balance of the piece - big disappointment - 

Naked Pizza

Tasted - Tee Shirt - pizza - 

Raved about - Chef's - pizza

Now - Naked Pizza - from the post Superbowl streets of New Orleans - 

According to news reports - they are hoping to open 100 plus franchises in the next year - and from sources in their corporate office - are already working on international franchieses as well - 

Could it work ? - 

Yes - but only for the NY/LA/Portand (OR) crowd who prefer - healthy over flavorful - organic over melty cheesy goodness - 

Naked Pizza - its good but not great - but thats what you get for a lower calorie trade off - a dryer - thinner - blander - pie - 

Mike's Pizza

Don't know what's come over me - but hole-in-the-wall pizza joints are reaching out - as though I were a magnet - 

Latest - Mike's - on Lexington/88th - not quite tee shirt pizza- that I have been railing against - this place was only slightly bigger than a NYC second bedroom - six people at the counter - packed in tighter than a subway car during rush hour - something has to be clicking for UES folks to put up with such conditions - 

As if exhaling - slices were served - the place emptied out - I was able to survey the selection - settling on a slice of bacon pizza - in for a penny - in for a pound - 

Finding an empty stool along the 8 foot long - 9 inch wide side wall counter - until my slice came out of the oven - hot - crisp - medium crust - well cooked chunks of crispy bacon against light cheese and tomato sauce - not overpowering - almost refreshing - if you can say that about anything with bacon as a key ingredient - 

Sprang for a second slice - mushroom - same great crust - but a bit heavy on the cheese which overpowered the mushroom slices - 

Good find - would return without a second thought for the bacon slice and to sample the other offerings - 

Hell's Kitchen Pizza

Something came over me - had to have a slice - 

Walked into the first place - eaten there years ago - nothing had changed - tee-shirt pizza - wild combinations - same old - same old - I passed - 

Stuck my head in a second place - immediately sensed - as much as I wanted one - this slice wasn't worth the calories - 

Headed home - 10th Avenue - waiting at the bus stop - noticed "Hell's Kitchen something" across the street - maybe a diet coke - took a closer look - Hell's Kitchen Pizza - perfect - 

The motif is black - signage is high contrast white - very simple menu - Chef Russ Brunelli on site (makes a big difference) - in the pre-made case - two pies caught my eye - Hell's Fire - Old School (plain slice) - keeping it simple - the Old School slice went into the oven - 

Back to me in 4 or 5 minutes - crisp yet slightly chewy thin crust - simple sauce - touch of spice - ample cheese - clean - hot - a quick snack - 

Definitely not to be scarfed - worth a return - have to see just how hot the Hell's Fire Pizza at Hell's Kitchen Pizza really is - 

Had To Try A Slice

Walking up Ninth Avenue - hole-in-the-wall Sacco Pizza was packed - a diverse crowd - belly'd up to the counter - ordering a slice - leaning against the side wall - waiting for their slice (slices) to come out of the pizza oven - huddling over a table - eating off the mini pizza tray on which the slices had been served - 

So much activity - had to try a slice - 

Ordered mine through the sidewalk window - plain - watched the three-man tee-shirted crew - take more orders - make more pizzas - serve more slices - never bumping - ballet - moving within the tight space behind the counter - no theatrics - no (bacon-cheeseburger-artichoke) designer pizzas - 

Maybe four minutes - my slice was hot - the crust was thin - chewy - tomato sauce was simple - lots of cheese - wonderfully clean and fresh - a win in its simplicity - if one were sitting down - it would definitely be a two slice order - 

Epitomizing NYC "sidewalk pizza" - Sacco Pizza proclaims itself - "over 30 years in business - it should easily go another 30 - 

Enjoy - 

Pizza By La Grolla

Pizza in New York usually means a guy in a white T-shirt - barely speaking English - repetitively making the same round pie - with the same canned tomato sauce - poured onto the same pounded crust - upon which the same Mozzarella cheese is sprinkled - before the pie goes into the oven - from which the finished pie emerges to be cut into eight pieces - so that the guy in the white T-shirt can slap down the slice - to go - on the counter - 

Don't get me wrong - I would die without being able to grab-a-slice - but there's got to be a better mouse trap  - and I think I've found it - Pizza By La Grolla - 

La Grolla - the restaurant opened about ten years ago - a truly neighborhood italian joint with a great chef - 

Fast forward - recession hits - lease renewal - rents skyrocket - the chef - reasoning that "life is too short" - swaps his double storefront with the Mediterranean restaurant up with street with the tiny storefront - voila -  Pizza by La Grolla -

• Q - What happens when the Chef spends 100% of his time making the bare essential that we call Pizza 
• A - Magic - 

First - The Chef Dan remembers my name - I taste a piece of plain pizza - very good - medium crust - 

Next visit - the Chef asks about my wife - and her previous employer - I bring him up to date - this time I order Forestiera Pizze A Taglio (Rectangular Pizze) - it was one of those OMG eating experiences - Rosemary Ham - Mushrooms - Ricotta - Mozzarella - the ingredients wedded atop a crust that merged pizza with delicate pastry - cut into four small pieces - its was simply amazing - I walked down the block trying to figure out what was going on with each bite - 

Anxious now to return for Carciofo - Valdostana - Divola - Salsicciona - Patata - Tonno and Affumicata (Eggplant - Smoke Mozzarella - Parmigiano - Tomato Sauce) - or perhaps - Paste - Panini - and - Sfizi (Appetizers) - 

The space is small - fresh - the brick-oven taking up the space behind the count - food prep being done in the back - there aren't too many tables - but whether you eat-in - take-out - or - opt for delivery - you're going to enjoy something very different than you or I have been used to - 

 

Nizza

Tucked between 9th Avenue hot-spot 5 Napkin Burger and 9th Avenue mainstay Marseilles - Nizza is an unassuming Italian restaurant - bringing a clean take and absolutely fresh taste (every cup of coffee is via an individual French Press) to 9th's wall-to-wall restaurant scene -

Though the menu looks traditional - items like Fig Pizza create electricity -

Black Figs are mashed - mixed with a touch of sugar - briefly heated - 
Spread on pizza dough -
Sprinkled with Gorgonzola (just like you would add Mozzarella on top of a regular Pizza) - 
Into the Brick Oven - 
Pulled out piping hot -
Covered with paper thin Prosciutto -

One bite - two - OMG -

Its Never Too Hot For Pizza

Debating what to order for "outdoor snack" on NYC's hottest day/evening of the year - college co-ed proclaimed - "its never too hot for pizza" - (Pizzeria Uno (Chicago Grill) - 

Don Filippo

When you jump out of the Lexington Avenue train stop - heading north to catch the crosstown bus back to the Westside - Don Filippo is practically the last food opportunity before crossing 79th and mechanically boarding the bus - 

Its a narrow passage in - slightly bigger than the width of the door - pass the ovens on the left - the pre-made slices in the middle display - the "squeeze" space on the right - 

The aroma of the food is hard to resist - it literally sucks you in - 

Place your order - a simple slice would be a criminal act - let the mind roam - selections roll - this is not a dieter's delight - rather a pizza love-fest - the slices are done well - the toppings generous - moist with flavors that assault the senses - you are pressed to only have one - even though two slices will leave you filled-to-the-brim - 

Yes - you can order every Southern Italian dish under the sun - but why - this is not intended to be fine dining - 

When last I checked - they had not corrected their one fault that truly pisses me off - they will not deliver a single pizza to the UWS at 11:00 PM - or for that matter - anytime - bummer - 

If you are a student of "the slice" - you must stop into Don Filippo -

Enjoy - 

Not Just More Pizza

Columbus Bakery closed - renovations started immediately in the space - "another pizza shop" - resignation rushed through the neighborhood -

RIP

When I moved to the Upper West Side - 30 years ago - the best slice in New York was Vinnie's Pizza on Amsterdam between 73rd and 74th -

Passed over a chest high - chipped - Formica counter top - it was magic -

Always busy - you could squeeze into a table - or - inhale the slice as you walked up the sidewalk - or - order in - provided you lived within their rigidly enforced delivery zone -

They made a perfect linguine with tons of sauted garlic and just a touch of olive oil - i.e. - almost dry - or - my wife's favorite -  linguine with white clam sauce -

Vinnie retired - a nephew remodeled - better furniture - a fancy oven - weird layout - a temporary fabric sign on the front of the restaurant for over two years -

About a week ago - the temporary sign was gone - butcher's paper appeared on the windows -

This morning - signage proclaiming - Space Available -

RIP - Vinnie's Pizza -